A single breasted suit has one column of buttons and a narrow overlap, making it the most versatile choice for business, weddings, and daily wear. A double breasted suit has two columns of buttons and a wide overlapping front, creating a bolder, more formal look with peak lapels. Most Chicago men should start with a single breasted bespoke suit, then add a double breasted suit for events, winter, and personal style.
The Core Difference
The difference between double breasted and single breasted suits comes down to the front of the jacket.
A single breasted jacket closes with a single column of buttons. The two front panels overlap only slightly. It typically has one, two, or three buttons and is often worn unbuttoned when seated.
A double breasted jacket has two parallel columns of buttons and a much wider overlap. One side of the jacket folds across the other and fastens with an internal button, called a jigger button, and an external anchor button. It is designed to be worn buttoned.
That single construction choice changes the silhouette, formality, and personality of the entire suit.
Single Breasted vs. Double Breasted at a Glance
- Formality: Single breasted ranges from casual to formal. Double breasted reads more formal and assertive.
- Versatility: Single breasted works for nearly every occasion. Double breasted is more of a statement piece.
- Lapels: Single breasted usually has notch lapels, with peak lapels as an option. Double breasted traditionally uses peak lapels.
- How it is worn: Single breasted can be worn open or closed. Double breasted should stay buttoned when standing.
- Silhouette: Single breasted creates a long, vertical V. Double breasted emphasizes the chest and shoulders.
- Warmth: Double breasted adds a layer of fabric across the chest, which helps in Chicago winters.
- Wardrobe role: Single breasted is the foundation. Double breasted is often the second or third suit.
Understanding Single Breasted Suits
The single breasted suit is the foundation of modern menswear. It is the standard for business suits, wedding suits, and everyday tailoring.
Common button styles:
- One button: Sleek and modern, often used for dinner jackets and tuxedos
- Two button: The most popular and versatile style for business and formal wear
- Three roll two: A three button jacket with a lapel that rolls past the top button, a classic Ivy and Neapolitan detail
Button rule: On a two button jacket, fasten the top button and leave the bottom open. On a three roll two, fasten the middle button. Unbutton the jacket when you sit.
Lapels: Notch lapels are the standard. Peak lapels on a single breasted jacket are gaining popularity in 2026 and add authority to a business suit.
Understanding Double Breasted Suits
The double breasted suit has deep roots in naval uniforms and midcentury tailoring. In 2026, it has returned with a lighter, softer construction and a cleaner waist.
Common button configurations:
- 6x2: Six buttons with two that fasten, the most classic style
- 6x1: Six buttons with one that fastens, creating a deeper V and a longer line
- 4x2: Four buttons with two that fasten, a slightly shorter, more relaxed look
- 4x1: Four buttons with one fastening, a lower and more modern stance
Button rule: Keep the anchor button fastened whenever you stand. Some men also fasten the jigger button inside to keep the jacket from shifting. Most double breasted jackets can be unbuttoned when you sit.
Lapels: Peak lapels are traditional and balance the wide front. A shawl collar is used on double breasted dinner jackets.
Which Style Flatters Your Body Type?
Body type matters, but bespoke tailoring can adapt either style to most builds.
- Tall and slim: Double breasted adds width and presence to the chest. Single breasted also works well with a longer jacket.
- Athletic or broad chested: Both styles work. A 6x1 or 6x2 double breasted jacket with a soft shoulder looks strong without exaggeration.
- Shorter frames: A two button single breasted jacket with a slightly higher button stance creates a longer line. A double breasted jacket can work if the button stance and lapel are scaled correctly.
- Fuller midsection: A single breasted one or two button jacket creates a cleaner vertical line. A precisely cut 6x1 double breasted jacket can also slim the torso by creating a long diagonal.
The key is proportion. An expert tailor adjusts the button spacing, lapel width, gorge height, and jacket length so either style looks natural on your frame.
Which Style Is Right for the Occasion?
Choose single breasted for:
- Daily office wear and client meetings
- Court appearances and conservative industries
- Interviews and first impressions
- Travel, when you want versatility
- Wearing the jacket separately as a blazer or sport coat
Choose double breasted for:
- Business dinners, galas, and award events
- Weddings, especially as a groom or groomsman
- Holiday parties and evening events
- Winter in Chicago, when the extra layer adds warmth
- Building a wardrobe with more personality
Fabric Choices for Each Style
The right cloth can change how each style reads.
Single breasted suits look sharp in year round worsted wool, tropical wool, linen for summer, and flannel for winter. Solids, pinstripes, birdseye, and subtle checks are all appropriate.
Double breasted suits look especially strong in navy chalk stripe, charcoal flannel, brown windowpane, and heavier worsteds. Because the jacket covers more of the body, mid to heavy weights drape better and hold the shape of the overlap.
At ESQ, you can choose from more than 20,000 fabrics from Italian and English mills, including Loro Piana and Scabal, and match each one to the style and season you need.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Wearing a double breasted jacket open while standing. It loses its shape and the wide front flaps loosely.
- Buttoning every button on a single breasted jacket. Always leave the bottom button open.
- Choosing a double breasted suit with a long, low front on a short frame. Scale the stance to your height.
- Overpadding the shoulders. Modern double breasted suits look best with natural or lightly structured shoulders.
- Ignoring the trousers. A higher rise and a clean leg line keep a double breasted jacket balanced.
Which Should You Buy First?
For most men, the first custom suit should be single breasted in navy or charcoal. It covers the widest range of occasions and can be worn every week.
Once you have a strong foundation, a double breasted suit becomes a valuable addition. It gives your wardrobe range, signals confidence, and looks especially current in 2026. Many Chicago clients choose a navy or charcoal double breasted suit as their second or third custom suit.
Designing Either Style at ESQ
At ESQ's showrooms at 180 N LaSalle St. in the Chicago Loop and 1085 Gage St. in Winnetka, every suit begins with a consultation about how you live, work, and dress. Your experienced tailor will recommend the button configuration, lapel style, and fabric that suit your build and goals. Your pattern is drafted from the ground up and finished by hand. Bespoke suits begin at $3,295, with completion typically in five to six weeks.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a double breasted and single breasted suit?+
A single breasted suit has one column of buttons and a narrow overlap. A double breasted suit has two columns of buttons and a wide overlapping front, usually with peak lapels.
Are double breasted suits more formal?+
Yes. Double breasted suits generally read more formal and assertive, which makes them ideal for business events, weddings, and evening occasions.
Should a double breasted jacket be buttoned?+
Yes. A double breasted jacket should stay buttoned when standing to maintain its shape. It can be unbuttoned when seated.
Can shorter men wear double breasted suits?+
Yes, when the jacket is properly proportioned. A bespoke tailor adjusts the button stance, lapel width, and length to suit a shorter frame.
Which suit style should I buy first?+
Most men should start with a navy or charcoal single breasted suit for versatility, then add a double breasted suit as a second or third piece.